Batteries for the 1200GS

Odesey
PC680
PC680MJ (Metal Jacket)

GPS mount and be seen from behind

Dad had an extra GPS so it had to go on the bike also. The virtual mount(it's clear so you can't see it) is from 3/8" polycarbonate. 3 1/2" wide and 5" long. The backing plate is from the same materia and goes under the metal piece on the dash. 3 stainless screws and you are ready to go.


















I saw one of the Whelen strip lights on the back of a LEO bike and decided that would be the way to go. The light mount was made out of 1" aluminum flat bar with some stainless screws with lock nuts. Redrilled the holes for the license plate to move it down. Since I left the blubs in place the CAN bus is still happy. For stop and tail I made spade and lug splices so no cutting of wires. The blinkers were soldered into the lugs on the flashers. I bought it in Houston at the Whelen distributer. Fleet safety Equipment. You can find them on the web for a bit cheaper. There are a bunch of different combos of LEDs. I got the Strip LED with Amber turn. model PSRASXCR They are about $100.

Fixing the GS1200 Seat

The one part of my survey from BMW that I found myself dogging the bike on was the seat. There is no way to get comfortable on it. It wants to roll you forward even with the back set down and the front up (I noticed in my manual that they say not to run it this way). I have the tall seat option as I am 6' 9". The seat pans are the same for the standard and the tall seat they just put more foam in and longer covering.

So really the seat just needs a wedge up front. So I had some foam left over from fixing the seat in the Ford F350. It is a $3 foam sleeping pad from wally world.
So Material/Tools
Stainless staples
Electric Staple gun
Pliers
Clamps
Foam sleeping pad
sanding things for shaping the foam
3M 777 spray glue

First cut out about 3 sections of sleeping pad about the size of the seat starting at the low point measured towards the back.

Next take the pliers and start pulling staples from the back up to the low point of the saddle.
Shape the foam so it sits on the flat part of the seat pan and fills the angle. For shaping the foam I used a sanding station. A belt sander turned upside down will work. A Drill/grinder with a sanding disk would work also.


Next insert the foam in between the pan and the seat foam


Now using the clamps work the cover back over the seat pan and staple. You may find stapling the back will help.

Also if the staples come through the plastic lower than where they will be covered with seat foam then you may want to add some scraps of foam to make sure they do not punch through the seat cover.

For a couple hours work and $10 you now have a workable GS 1200 Seat.

If you have big hands, then just do it Grip-tek.com

Lights bar and lights

Light bar mount
Piece of 2x2 alum angle. Stainless clamps are used to hold to the bar. This pic shows the bracing clamp. Mounted are a pair of Hella 500s. Ugly lights. But they show up as very big and bright.


Starboard side of mount. I will probably cover in carbon fiber to make it look better.



top view of cable harness going into port side of tank. Use a coat hanger to fish it through so I did not have to take the tank off.




Top port side



Under tool tray. drilled hole in left side of box to bring harness and battery supply in.

Pics of projects

Front left side bag mount

Left side pannier that I picked up at REI for $100 for 2. These top load vs. the BMW $800 for one bag. The have florecent green rain covers. All the zippers are the waterproof type.



Left rear bag mount. The mounts were made with a piece of angle aluminum with fiber glass mushed in and left to cure. I used some vacuum bagging material to keep it from sticking.
The lock is a piece of angle alum. through one of the locking slots.

DIY Face Shield Tinting

When I ride to work it is in the sunlight. When I ride home it is dark. I wear glasses so sun glasses are a pain. What to do? I found some neat tinting material that sticks to the face shield of my helmet. I put it on the top half blocking the sun , but leaving my line of vision clear. It is Insta cling Windshield Tint Strip by Axius. I found it at a local discounter, but you can probably find it at an auto parts store. It said to apply with water, but I just stuck it on and then cut to fit with a knife around the top of the visor. This is the 5" wide by 78" long so if it gets dirty then I can just throw it away and cut a new one. About $3.00

www.auto-expresions.net is the company web site

Tourque specs for the 1200 GS

Tourqs you need from Marc Lewis's page

Crash bar buffer to crankcase, M6	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Crash bar to engine, front right, M6 x 10, with loose washer	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Silentbloc to engine, M8	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Crash bar to engine, rear left and right, Hex nut M8	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Crash bar to engine, front left, M8 x 16	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Oil drain plug, M16 x 1.5	Initial torque, 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) Final torque, 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs)
Engine block, M6 x 35	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Engine block, M6 x 50	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Engine block, M6 x 25	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Engine block, M8 x 60	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Engine block, M8 x 35	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Engine block, M10 x 110/130	Initial torque, 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) Final torque, 90°
Cylinder to crankcase, left/right M8 x 55	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Cylinder to crankcase, left/right, M6 x 35	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Cylinder head cover to cylinder head tighten in diagonally opposite sequence	10 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Cylinder head to cylinder Nuts of tie bolts, M10 tighten in diagonally opposite sequence	Oil screw threads lightly Initial torque, 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) Initial torque, 90° Final torque, 90°
Screw, M10 x 85	40 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
Screw, M6 x 30	9 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Tightening cylinder head Nuts of tie bolts, M10 In diagonally opposite sequence slacken and retighten each nut in turn	Initial torque 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) Final torque 180°
Screw, M10 x 85, Slacken and retighten screw	40 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
Starter cover to gearbox housing, M6 x 16	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Belt cover to engine, M5 x 14	5 Nm (4 ft-lbs)
Belt cover to engine, M5 x 20	5 Nm (4 ft-lbs)
Gearcase cover to crankcase, M6	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Belt cover to alternator, M5 x 16	5 Nm (4 ft-lbs)
Clutch cover to engine, M6 x 16	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Crankcase breather Vent connector to cylinder head, M6 x 16	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Belt pulley to crankshaft, M22 x 1.5	140 Nm (103 ft-lbs)
Compensating weight to balancing shaft Neck-down screw, M8 x 70	Replace screws Initial torque 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) Final torque, 90°
Gear wheel to balancing shaft, M8 x 50	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Camshaft Sprocket to auxiliary shaft, M5 x 16	Replace screws 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Pinion to camshaft, M10 x 1.25 x 25	65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)
Chain sprocket to crankshaft, M6 x 16	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Housing for chain tensioner to crankcase, M6 x 25	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Chain tensioner to cylinder left and right, M18 x 1.5	32 Nm (24 ft-lbs)
Fastener of timing-chain slider rail engine block, right, M10	18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
Rocker/follower with bearing Locknut, valve adjusting screw, M6 x 0.5	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Timing-gear carrier, camshaft bearing, bearing cap left/right, M8 x 30	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Timing-gear carrier, camshaft bearing, bearing cap left/right, M8 x 40	18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
Timing-gear carrier, camshaft bearing, bearing cap left/right, M8 x 65	15 Nm (11 ft-lbs)
Timing-gear carrier to cylinder head left/right, M6 x30	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Timing-gear carrier to cylinder head left/right, M6 x 60	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Oil supply Cooling oil line (inside engine) to crankcase, right Banjo bolt, M14 x 4.5	25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
Cooling oil line (inside engine) to crankcase, left, M6 x 16	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Oil pump to crankcase, M6 x 40	Initial torque, 4 Nm (3 ft-lbs) Final torque, 90°
Oil intake in crankcase, right, M6 x 25	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Pressure relief valve in crankcase, right Screw plug, M20 x 1.5	42 Nm (31 ft-lbs)
Oil filter, Sealing ring wetted with engine oil	11 Nm (8 ft-lbs)
Air intake to cylinder head left/right, M6 x20	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Engine Electrical System
Primary spark plug to cylinder head Bosch YR 5 LDE, M12 x 1.25	Thread free of oil and grease 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs)
Secondary spark plug to cylinder head Bosch YR 5 LDE, M12 x 1.25	Thread free of oil and grease 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs)
Cover, secondary spark plug coil to cylinder head, M6 x 12	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Alternator to crankcase, M8	18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
Belt pulley to alternator Flange nut, M14 x 1.5	50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
Wiring harness to alternator Flange nut, M6	6 Nm (4 ft-lbs)
Wiring harness to starter Hex nut, M8	10 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Starter with gearing to engine, M8 x 60	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Oil temperature sensor, M14 x 1.5	30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)
Oil pressure switch	30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)
Transmitter for control unit Knock sensor to cylinder, left/right, M8 x 30	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Speed sensor, camshaft, to cylinder head, M6 x 20	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Temperature sensor in cylinder head, outside, M 10	10 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Exhaust system
Exhaust manifold to cylinder head, Acorn nut M8	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Rear silencer to rear frame section, M8 x 45	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Torca clamp to silencer and elbow, M6 x 20 Note: some versions of the REP-ROM say this is an M8 bolt and requires 55Nm (41 ft-lbs) -- which is too much for an 8mm bolt.	Optimoly TA 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Oxygen sensor to exhaust elbow, M18 x 1.5	Optimoly TA 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
Clamp, elbow, rear, M6 x 20	Optimoly TA 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Exhaust system
Manifold to cylinder head, Acorn nut M8	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Rear silencer to rear frame section, M8 x 45	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Torca clamp to silencer and elbow, M6 x 20	Optimoly TA 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Oxygen sensor to exhaust elbow, M18 x 1.5	Optimoly TA 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs)
Clamp, elbow, rear, M6 x 20	Optimoly TA 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Clutch
Clutch housing to crankshaft Never re-use the original screws, M11 x 1.5	Initial torque, 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs) Final torque, 40°
Clutch housing cover to clutch housing, M6 x 20	12 Nm (9 ft-lbs)
Clutch slave cylinder to gearbox, M6 x 18	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Gearbox mechanical
Oil filler plug, gearbox	30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)
Oil drain plug, gearbox	30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)
Gearbox to engine block, M8 x 55	20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
Gearbox to engine block, M8 x 35	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Gearbox to engine block, M8 x 70	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Gearbox to engine block, M8 x 50	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Gearbox cover to gearbox housing	9 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Gear potentiometer to gearbox	9 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Selector lever to selector shaft, M6 x 25	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Locknut, ball socket on selector rod, Nut M6	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Foot-operated shift lever to selector shaft, M6 x 25	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Ball end to selector lever, Ball end M8	10 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Locknut, ball end to selector shaft, Hex nut M8	10 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Ball end to selector shaft, Ball end M8	10 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Front forks
Telescopic fork, ball-joint fork Leading link to engine, M12 x 20	Initial torque, 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs) Final torque, 73 Nm (54 ft-lbs)
Threaded cap, leading link to engine, M42 x 1.5	Lightly grease threads with Never Seez compound 6 Nm (4 ft-lbs)
Spring strut to front frame, Hex nut M10 x 1.25	Loctite 243 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
Spring strut, front, to leading link, M10 x 1.25	Optimoly TA 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
Ball joint to leading link, M14 x 1.5	Replace nut Micro-encapsulated 130 Nm (96 ft-lbs)
Ball joint in slider-tube bridge, M34 x 1.5	Lightly grease threads Optimoly TA 230 Nm (170 ft-lbs)
Quick-release axle clamp screws, M8 x 1.25	19 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Steering
Steel handlebars to fork bridge, M8 x 30	1st front, 2nd rear -> gap at rear only (as viewed in forward direction of travel) 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
Handlebar weight to handlebar, M12 x 1.5 x 80	Micro-encapsulated 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
Handlebar fitting to handlebar (perch), M5 x 20	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Pivot screw, handlebar-fitting lever, M5 x 30	5 Nm (4 ft-lbs)
Rear-wheel drive
Cover to final drive housing, M8	Loctite 542 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)
Hex nut, drive bevel gear, M24 x 1.5	Replace screws Micro-encapsulated 200 Nm (148 ft-lbs)
Threaded ring, M65 x 1.5	160 Nm (118 ft-lbs)
Oil filler plug in rear wheel drive, M12 x 1, with O-ring 11.2 x 1.8	20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
Rear wheel drive to swinging arm, M12 x 1.5	100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)
Strut to final drive housing, M10 x 55	43 Nm (32 ft-lbs)
Reaction link to frame, M10	43 Nm (32 ft-lbs)
Lock nut, swinging arm to main frame, left, M24 x 1.5	145 Nm (107 ft-lbs)
Bearing stud, swinging arm to main frame, left, M24 x 1.25	7 Nm (5 ft-lbs)
Swinging arm to main frame, right, M6	9 Nm (7 ft-lbs)
Strut left to strut right, M6 x 16	Micro-encapsulated 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Spring strut to rear swinging arm, M10 x 80	Loctite 243 58 Nm (43 ft-lbs)
Spring strut to main frame, M10 x 1.25	Replace nut Mechanical thread lock 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
Brakes (w/ABS)
Brake caliper to slider tube, M8 x 32	30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)
Brake disc to front wheel, M8 x 20	Replace screws Micro-encapsulated 24 Nm
Front brake caliper bleed screw	5 Nm (4 ft-lbs)
Brake caliper, rear, to cover of final drive housing, M8 x 25	24 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
Brake disc to wheel carrier, M8 x 15.5	Micro-encapsulated Initial torque, 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs) Final torque, 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs)
Rear brake caliper bleed screw, counter-hold w/f 12 banjo bolt, if necessary	5 Nm (4 ft-lbs)
Brake master cylinder to rear frame, M6 x 20	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Brake-fluid reservoir to rear frame, M6 x 10	Replace screws Micro-encapsulated 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Brake lines -- Connecting piece to rear frame, M6 x 16	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Brake pipes and hoses to components, M10 x 1	18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
Brake pipes and hoses to components, M12 x 1	18 Nm (13 ft-lbs)
Distributor to front frame, M6 x 12	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Brake hose cover to strut, M6 x 16	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Wheels and tyres
Quick-release axle in axle holder, M24 x 1.5	50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
Rear wheel to wheel carrier, M10 x 1.25	in diagonally opposite sequence 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs)
Nipple on spoke, M4	4 Nm (3 ft-lbs) Variant, Cross-spoked wheels
Initial torque, spokes, M4	1 Nm (1 ft-lbs) Variant, Cross-spoked wheels
Counter-hold spokes, M4	1 Nm (1 ft-lbs) Variant, Cross-spoked wheels
Motorcycle frame
Rear frame to engine, bottom, M12 x 50	55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
Rear frame to engine, top, M10 x 40	38 Nm (28 ft-lbs)
Rear frame to gearbox, M8 x 55	1. Hand-tighten all screws; 2. Tighten gearbox screw first; 3. Tighten remaining screws 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs)
Front frame to engine, M12 bolt	Replace nuts Micro-encapsulated 82 Nm (61 ft-lbs)
Frame strut to engine, M10 x 40	Replace screws Micro-encapsulated 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs)
Frame strut to front frame, M10 bolt	Replace nuts Micro-encapsulated 38 Nm (28 ft-lbs)
Center and Side stands
Center stand to main frame, M10 x 30	40 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
Center-stand stop to rear silencer, M6 x 16	6 Nm (4 ft-lbs)
Side stand to pivot mount, M10 x 1	Micro-encapsulated 56 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
Luggage carrier
Luggage rack to rear frame, center, M6 x 25	Replace screws Mechanical thread lock 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Luggage rack to rear frame, at sides, M6 x 30	Mechanical thread lock 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Rear carrier to rear frame section, M6 x 20	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Luggage carrier to rear carrier, M5 x 16	2 Nm (1 ft-lbs)
Lock, seat latch, to rear carrier	2 Nm (1 ft-lbs)
Clamp, case holder to rear frame, M6 x 50	12 Nm (9 ft-lbs)
Case holder through rear carrier to rear frame at top, M6 x 35	12 Nm (9 ft-lbs)
Adapter plate to luggage rack, M6 x 40	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Adapter plate to topcase support, M6 x 14	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)
Topcase support to rear frame, M6 x 20	8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)

DIY BMW 1200 GS Lexan protector for the head lamps

The first project for the 1200 GS after getting it home from the dealer was to protect the $300 headlamp. This is accomplished with a piece of lexan from Home Depot.

Materials for the project:
1- Lexan sheet
1- Manila Folder (template material)
2 - 1/2" Stainless Ancor Clamp
2- 1/4 20 stainless screws, washer and nuts

Tools:

• Scissors
• Marking pens (Dual tipped Sharpies work great)
  
• Drill with 1/4 bit
• Jig saw with metal blade
• File
• Sandpaper
  

The head lamps on the BMW 1200 GS are a pretty odd shape so making a pattern is the best way to do the layout. I used the manila folder for tracing out the pattern, then cut the pattern out with scisors. You would like your head lamp protector to follow the lines of the head lamp pretty well so that reflection from the light is not thrown up on the wind screen.

Once the pattern is placed on the lexan sheet then cut out with the jig saw.
Use the file to clean up the saw marks then use the sand paper for final smoothing

Now that you have your final shape take the clamps and place them on the metal bar in front of the headlamp. Place the cut out lexan sheet in place and mark the holes. Drill the holes.

Remove the protective sheeting from the lexan sheet and use the 1/4 x 20 screws to mount on the bike with the clamps.
You are Done now go for a ride.

Once